Lustau Manzanilla Papirusa

Emilio Lustau was founded by Don José Ruiz-Berdejo in 1896: the business was originally an almacenista (a “wholesaler” – which means they can’t sell their wines directly, but have to sell them on to “shipping bodegas”) and in fact it remained that way until the seventies. It was in the 1940’s that Don José’s son-in-law, Don Emilio Lustau Ortega, took over the business and moved the bodega to the old quarter of Jerez. It was during the company’s expansion in the 1970s that they became shippers, and created a name for themselves as producers of top-quality sherries.

In 1990 the family run company became part of the Luis Caballero group; this has allowed Lustau the capital needed to expand. This includes the latest acquisition, in 2008, of La Ina and six bodegas that previously belonged to Domecq from Beam Global (the spirits arm of Fortune Brands, and current owner of Harveys Bristol Cream).

The most interesting part of this for me is that they are the only company that produce wines from each of the three Sherry towns: Jerez, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. So I thought it would be fun to compare all three side by side. The wines are all made by the same company and from the Palomino Fino grape. The only difference is that the wines have been aged in different towns.

Lustau Manzanilla Papirusa
The Papirusa was aged in American oak casks in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. For more information on the town, and Sherry in general click here.

Tasting Note Fruit DayFruit Day
I have a feeling that this bottle has been hanging around the shop too long, instead of those classic fresh and briny notes the nose seems a little tired. The palate has more of that traditional salty tang coming through, followed by green apples and a delightful freshness on the finish.

May 2011

Lustau Manzanilla Papirusa
Country: Spain
Region: Jerez
Vintage: NV
Alcohol: 15.0%
Grape Variety:
Palomino Fino
Where To Buy:
Harrods, Handford, Berry Brothers & Rudd, Wine-Searcher
Tags: Lustau, Manzanilla Papirusa, Jerez, Sherry, Spain